Clash 1 Test Runs

Clash 1 is my take on a Class 1 buggy (or perhaps an ultimate 4×4 rock racer) based on my Slash Chassis.  I’ add more detail on the process and parts later (or you can check out my build thread over at URC) but I figured I’d add these videos of me testing.

Non-Standard Bodies

Well it’s been a while so I thought I’d add something. 🙂

There’s been a bit of discussion on the forums I frequent (URC mainly) about non short course bodies for the Slash so I thought I’d have a go at compiling a little post to look at the options available.

I don’t think I’ll get them all so suggestions are welcome.  One important point to note is that I’m NOT looking at  what I shall call “monster truck” style bodies e.g. a Stampede body on a Slash chassis.  I’m only going to look at things that will fit the standard chassis without the wheels sticking out like a sore thumb!  (I don’t know what it is but I just can’t abide that look, with very few exceptions).

Anyway on to business……..  Just click on the picture to be taken (wherever possible) to a relevant manufacturer website.

Chevy Silverado HD Clear Body

True Scale Ford F-150 Raptor SVT Clear Body

2012 Ford Focus ST Clear Body

Volkswagen Full Fender Baja Bug Clear Body

Volkswagen Baja Bug Clear Body

14RS Clear Body – This is now a legacy item so you may have to shop around to find one.

JCONCEPTS Illuzion – BAJR – Traxxas Slash Desert body Part # – 0080

0084 – Illuzion – Slash 2wd – Ford Raptor SVT – SC body

https://i0.wp.com/mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/137/product_image/x1_50b2307be2ac699a9ac408e487e7396c.jpg

Dune Buggy For SLASH – Clear Body – #1236

https://i0.wp.com/mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/137/product_image/x1_0da7079d3b023fb5a3303610970c7d4b.jpg

FIFTY FIVE SC BAJA .040″ Clear Body – #1238

So that’s all the “standard” non sc bodies I can find.  If you are aware of others please let me know.

If you want to do a bit of shopping around you may find other non-Slash body shells that will fit so here are a few images and measurements that may help.

Length: 22.36 inches (568mm)
Front Track: 11.65 inches (296mm)
Rear Track: 11.65 inches (296mm)
Height (overall)     ­     8.425 inches (214mm)
Wheelbase     ­     13.2 inches (335mm)

Of course if you wanna go really custom you could do something like this 🙂

This my SC8 Rollcage based custom “Clash 1” project which is a work in progress at the time of writing 🙂 Click on the picture to visit the build thread over at URC.

More Upgrades….

to paraphrase a certain pop song from my past…

Upgrades! There’s never enough
There’s never enough until your credit stops flowing
The more you get, the deeper the pain
Don’t give up the upgrades until your credit stops flowing

<sorry :)>

Since my last post on the subject (here) there have been a few parts released by the likes of Pro-Line and RPM and I’ve learnt more so I decided to do an update post. So here goes with part 2.

Chassis Upgrades

Ok biggest issue with the Slash from most peoples perspective is its High Center of Gravity (HCG).  I’m not going to get into the science behind why a Low Center of Gravity (LCG) is better than a HCG.  Lets just say HCG = Bad, LCG=Good.

It is therefore little wonder that there quite a few LCG kits out there.  Now I’m not going to look at them all and I don’t have one myself yet so don’t feel really qualified but I am going to list one of the ‘classics’ and one of newer options out there for now.  I’m sure to come back to this subject at some point.

I’ll start with the ‘classic’ STRC Slash 2WD LCG Conversion Kit.  This kit basically takes a stock Rustler parts and extends the wheelbase.  It’s a relatively cheap proven approach (by others at least) that is definitely near the top of the contenders list.  Remeber though you do need the following Traxxas parts to complete conversion; TRA3722A Lower Chassis for Rustler, TRA3723A Upper Chassis for Rustler.  The TRA3727A Battery hold down plate is up to you.

Next on the list is one of the latest.  The ProLine PRO-2 Low Centre of Gravity Chassis Kit For Traxxas Slash 2WD look, well lets be honest, pretty sexy and the inital performance reports seem very good.

There is also the ANZA. Made from carbon fiber components, and CNC-machined, anodized aluminum  which seems to be getting good feedback so far.

If you want more detail on the chassis then follow the links or use Google.

STRC Slash 2WD LCG Conversion Kit (Blue) – other colours are available.

PL6093-00
ProLine PRO-2 Low Centre of Gravity Chassis Kit For Traxxas Slash 2WD

ANZA5822 LCG CHASSIS SET (TRAXXAS SLASH)

Chassis Protection

Bumpers:

First of the new Pro-Line upgrades falls into this category – sort of – jointly.  It’s the ProLine Pro 2 Front Bumpers and Bulkhead for 2WD Slash which as you may expect from it’s name also includes…you guessed it…a bulkhead.

Next up from Pro-Line is the ProLine Pro 2 Rear Bumpers for 2WD Slash With Proline Transmission.  You did notice the important bit there?  ProLine Pro 2 Rear Bumpers for 2WD Slash With Proline Transmission.  That’s right you have to have the Pro-Line transmission (see further down the page for more on that little beauty) for it to fit.

Performance is uncertain, it’s all new, but given Pro-Lines past record they will have to of really messed up for these upgrades not to be worthwhile, especially when all combined together.

PL6095-00
ProLine Pro 2 Front Bumpers and Bulkhead for 2WD Slash

PL6092-14
ProLine Pro 2 Rear Bumpers for 2WD Slash With Proline Transmission

Chassis Savers:

As mentioned the last time the Pro-Line chassis saver can almost completely eliminate the week point in the chassis saving you from breaking them but the point I wanted to make here is this only applies to the stock chassis.

PL6062-08
Pro-Line Chassis Saver For Traxxas Slash

Suspension & Steering

Bulkhead:

The new Pro-Line bulkhead comes part of the ProLine Pro 2 Front Bumpers and Bulkhead for 2WD Slash seen above.  Enough said. For now.

PL6095-00
ProLine Pro 2 Front Bumpers and Bulkhead for 2WD Slash

Hinge-Pins:

Pro-Line other new upgrade, these guys have been busy, includes a hardened steel hinge pins set for the slash 2wd.

PL6096-00
ProLine Pro 2 Hinge Pin Set for 2WD Slash

Drivetrain

Transmission Case:

Ok it’s time for the new kid on the block here but they have a track record.  RPM have just released their RPM Gearbox Housing and Rear Mounts
(Fits Traxxas 2wd Slash, 2wd Stampede, e-Rustler & Bandit).

There are 2 reasons this is exciting. 1. its RPM with a proven track record. 2. It’s retail price is $30! About half the price of most other cases.  It does not include internal components (gears bearings, shafts, etc.).  but with a metal motor mount for heat dissipation and with two sets of rear mounts – 0° and 3° – included.

What’s not to like about that?  At that price it’s got to be worth a punt and I know I will be ordering one.

Drive-shafts:

Also among the recently released Pro-Line upgrades is an axel kit, unfortunately it only fits the Pro-Trac suspension kit, let me repeat that just in case – it only fits the Pro-Trac suspension kit.

PL6099-00
ProLine Pro 2 Protrac Axle Kit for 2WD Slash With Protrac Suspension

Hexes:

Still more upgrades from Pro-Line, this time in the form of

PL6097-00
ProLine Pro 2 Front Clamping Hexes for 2WD Slash (2)

PL6098-00
ProLine Pro 2 Rear Clamping Hexes for 2WD Slash (2)

Well that’s it for now.  Remember if you missed my first post on upgrades you can see it here.

There is also a new thread over at URC that adds more, see here.

Note: The links in this post go to hobby shops in the UK and US.  I don’t get commission from them, I’m just trying to make life easier. They may be me favourites but that doesn’t mean you have to use them.

My Slash – Videos

A couple of little videos from when I first got my slash earlier this year.

The first is 100% stock taken a few days after I got my slash, the second one is doing a few jumps with my first brushless config – an etronix SBS 2.0 9T 4370KV motor – and everything else stock.  The “ramp” is a butchered paste table 🙂

My Slash – A Visual History

If a picture speak a thousand words then here’s a 54,000 word essay on the the subject of “My Slash”.

View albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView albumView album

Upgrades Galore!

Lets get this straight from the start, everyone has different ideas about upgrades, the need for them, what they should be, what order they should be in. This is my take on the matter and you may not agree or even like it but quite honestly that doesn’t matter. Just take a read and take what you want from this 🙂

The vast majority of the information in this post comes from this thread over at URC. Evil Genius Jr. (and the other contributors) did a brilliant job with this thread and it proved a great help to me. I’d like to thank him for letting me use his words in/for this article.  I wanted to add a couple of bits to broaden the scope a little bit and add a few UK links, updated alternatives, part numbers but much of the stuff listed will still have to be ordered from the US.  So here goes….

Wheels/Tyres:

The least obvious but possibly most important upgrade you can make and a complex issue to boot. There are many factors (terrain, surface, looks) that influence the decision which, in this post at least, I will not touch on but below are a couple recommendations based on my research and personal experiences. These are all Short Course (2.2/3.0) based tyres and I’ll be linking, where I can, to pre-mounted versions of them but they can of course be found in tyre only form.

Pro-Line Trenchers
Very popular all round tyre, jack of all surfaces – master of non. Probably worst on loose dirt but still WAYYYY better than stock tyres. These are what I run by default – a decent all round tyre.
Pro-Line Trencher SC M2 – Mounted on Black Renegade SC Wheels (2)

Pro-Line Badlands
Wide motocross style tread, little bit heavy and stiff and often a good idea to soften suspension.  These are not for on road or hard surfaces better on soft/loose surface –  a decent off road bashers tyre.
Pro-Line Badlands SC Tyres with Closed Cell Inserts

Of course there are lots of other options out there but the above are good “off the shelf” upgrades.

Chassis Protection

Bumpers:

As EGJr. said “For both the front and rear RPM is the way to go.” The consensus is definitely avoid metal bumpers – “good hit and you have a bent bumper”.

“The stock bumper in the front has a support attaching it to the bulkhead, when the bumper is hit some force is transmitted to the bulkhead, sometimes breaking it. the RPM does away with this support making bulkhead breakages less likely.Plus is RPM’s plastic”.

“I’m not sure what upgrades RPM’s rear bumper offers except looks, mud flap mounts, and light mounts. Could someone please chime in on this?”

Ok I’ll chime in.  I like the scale(ish) look and the RPM rear bumper offers a better looking SCT in my opinion, especially if you add the mudflaps.  I’ll be replacing the stock with the RPM when they break.

RPM80952
RPM Front Skid Plate And Bumper For Traxxas Slash – Black

RPM81002
RPM Rear Bumper For The Traxxas Slash – Black

Note: RPM parts are available in a range of colours.

Skid Plates:

”For the front go RPM because it eliminates the bell-crank popping out.
For the back the Pro-Line one is the best because it integrates the rear bumper mount and skid plate into one solid piece”.

Unfortunately it seems the Pro-Line one is no longer available so your left with RPM.  I have the rear one after ripping the rear end off on a kerb and breaking the stock rear skid plate and rear suspension mount.

My broken rear skid plate and rear suspension mount.

RPM81252
RPM Front Skid Plate For The Traxxas Slash – Black

RPM81242
RPM Rear Skid Plate For The Traxxas Slash – Black

Chassis Savers:

This completely eliminates the week point in the chassis saving you from breaking them.

Pro-Line Chassis saver

Suspension & Steering

Bulkhead:

”STRC and FLM are good, the venom one has a 3-piece design that makes it not as strong as the others”.

“If you have a RPM Front bumper aluminium bulkheads are not necessary, they do look good and add some strength and weight to the front”.

I can’t comment here as I haven’t had either but I can say that its a pretty consistent view in the community and I’ve been through 4 bulkheads so far.  Just can’t decide which one to get and hoping one becomes available over here in the UK soon so I don’t have to order from the US and pay stupid amounts of tax on it.

STRC Front Bulkhead
FLM Front Bulkhead

A-Arms (Front & Rear):

”I would definitely recommend the Pro-Trac kit, It as stronger than stock and improves handling a-ton. If for some reason you dont want the Pro-Trac kit RPM’s arms are nearly indestructible. Do not use metal. It will bend becoming unusable”.

When my Rear A-Arms broke I replaced them with  RPM’s and they are still in one piece.  That said its mainly because I now run a wide mod using stock rustler rear arms (all round JANG wide mod) but rest assured if they break it will be RPM’s that replace them.

I have to say though I like the look of the Pro-Trac kit – angled and more realistic…scale(ish) than the RPM stuff so I may try it if I ever build another SCT/Baja type vehicle.  That said according to many the protrac kit makes real little difference.  JANG on the URC forums had this to say on the matter;

“Going from appropriately tuned stock suspension to appropriately tuned Pro-Trac I didn’t notice a significant difference in performance.  I didn’t check before & after lap times, and there may have been a difference, but it wasn’t enough to notice without checking lap times

The Pro-Line ProTrac Suspension Kit

PL6062-00
ProLine ProTrac Suspension Kit – Traxxas Slash/Stampede 2WD

RP M80242
RPM Front Wishbones – Fit Traxxas Slash, E-Rustler And E-Stampede – Black

RPM80182
RPM Rear Wishbones – Fit Traxxas Electric Stampede, Rustler and Slash 2WD – Black

Castor Blocks:

”Metal is the way to go here, pretty much any manufacturer is good. Whatever you do , don’t buy RPM here it flexes to much and beds your kingpin. The best is STRC or Traxxas”.

I have used both.  Traxxas metal ones on my Rustler Based Baja Bug (more to come on that in later posts) and RPM on my pre-jang-mod slash.  Personally RPM are better than stock and metal is better than RPM.

TRX-3632A
Caster Blocks – 30-degree – Blue-anodized 6061-T6 Aluminum (left & Right)

RPM80712
RPM Upgrade Caster Blocks For Traxxas Electric Stampede, Rustler And Bandit – Black

STRC Castor Blocks

Carriers/Steering Blocks:

”Metal is the best here but RPM is also good, the Pro-Trac kit includes some that are pretty good.”

This is another situation where I’ve used both.  Traxxas metal ones and RPM plastic.  No personal experience of the Pro-Line product but I will probably try it at some point.  ANZA also offer front carriers with either 0 or 5 degrees of toe.

RPM80372
RPM Front Bearing Carriers For The Traxxas Slash, E-Rustler, E-Stampede & Bandit

RPM80382
Rear Bearing Carriers For The Traxxas Slash, E-Rustler, E-Stampede & Bandit

TRX-3636A
Steering blocks – Rustler/Stampede/Bandit (2) – 6061-T6 aluminum (blue-anodized)/ 5x11mm ball bearings (4)

TRX-3652A
Stub Axle Carriers – Rustler/Stampede/Bandit (2) – 6061-T6 Aluminum (blue-anodized)/ 5x11mm Ball Bearings (4)

4402210
ANZA3632 K/PIN B/STUD C/BLK (0)(TRAXXAS SLASH

4402212
ANZA3633 K/PIN B/STUD C/BLK (5) TRAXXAS SLASH

STRC Front and Rear Carriers

Shock Towers:

On the plastic front you have options from RPM and Pro-Line (part of the Pro-Trac kit). There are a number of metal options.  Personally I run have with RPM plastic and currently use Integy Metal ones (I got them in an ebay parts bundle purchase).  There are also Carbon fibre options like the offerings from ANZA.  The consensus here seems to be that RPM is the way to go.

PL6062-00
ProLine ProTrac Suspension Kit – Traxxas Slash/Stampede 2WD

RPM80832
RPM Rear Shock Tower for Traxxas Slash 2WD/Stampede/Rustler/Bandit

RPM80852
RPM FRONT SHOCK TOWER FOR E-STAM/RUST – BANDIT & STAMPEDE

4402218
ANZA3639 FRONT SHOCK TOWER (1)(TRAXXAS SLASH)

4402216
ANZA3638 REAR SHOCK TOWER (1) (TRAXXAS SLASH)

STRC Front and Rear Towers

Steering Bell-Cranks:

”Metal is very good here, Pro-Line makes an upgrade unit that includes the servo saver built in, but it is a little pricey. The stock slash 4×4 one also works.”

I’m running Traxxas metal ones on the Slash and stock elsewhere.  Next breakage on a plastic ones and I’ll be trying the Slash 4×4 one I suspect.  The Traxxas metal ones are available in a range of colours.

PL6067-00
Proline Performance Steering Kit for 2WD Slash and Electric Rustler

TRX-3743A
Steering Bellcranks – Drag Link (blue-anodized T6 Aluminum)/ 5x8mm Ball Bearings (4) Hardware (assembled)

TRX-6845
Steering bellcranks/ servo saver/ servo saver spring/ servo spring retainer/servo horn, steering

Hinge-Pins:

Stock hinge ones are… well rubbish really.  I went for an ANZA set  myself but as EGJr said in his original article there are options from STRC and Lunsford which are very popular.  Here in the UK I can only find Wheelspin that sell Lunsford but they don’t do the kit so you have to buy separates.

4402220
ANZA3640 HINGE PIN SET (TRAXXAS SLASH)

Lunsford Hinge Pins @ Wheelspin

STRC Hingepins
Lunsford Hingepins

Shocks:

EGJr. had this to say on the matter of shocks:

“Well my opinion is that the Stock shocks with new springs, aluminium caps, and Ti-ni shafts. But if you do want better shocks Pro-Line Power Strokes are very good and the Big Bores are decent. Now if your completely insane (you know who you are ) you could put 1/8th scale shock on. Doc has a tutorial stickied for it.”

Shocks seems to be one of the most personal of choices but lets deal with the first sentence by saying that based on my research and experiences EGJr. is spot on.  When I first got my Slash the first thing that went were shock caps popping off and the shafts bending.  Traxxas themselves do shock caps and Ti-Ni shafts (long for the front and xx long for the rear assuming standard shocks).

TRX-3767A
Shock Caps Aluminum (blue-anodized) (4) (fits All Ultra Shocks)

TRX-1664T
Shock shafts – hardened steel – titanium nitride coated (long) (2)

TRX-2656T
Shock shafts – hardened steel – titanium nitride coated (xx-long) (2)

These are the links to the Pro-Line Power Strokes mentioned and whilst I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone complaining about their performance the price is a different matter – I won’t spoil the surprise mind you.

PL6063-00
ProLine Power Stroke Shocks For Traxxas Slash – Front

PL6063-01
ProLine Power Stroke Shocks For Traxxas Slash – Rear

I have no experience of the Traxxas Big Bores either but I can say they are cheaper than the Pro-lines, considerably.

X-2660
Big Bore shocks (long) (hard-anodized & Teflon-coated T6 aluminum) (assembled with TiN shafts) w/o springs (front) (2)

TRX-2662
Big Bore shocks (XX-long) (hard-anodized & Teflon-coated T6 aluminum) (assembled with TiN shafts) w/o springs (rear) (2)

TRX-5862
Traxxas Slash Big Bore Shock Set With Progressive Springs

The tutorial referred to is that of Dr Isotope, a leading light on the URC forums and an amazingly knowledgeable individual.  You can check it out here: Eighth scale size, 8ight(h) scale shocks.

I started with stock springs front and rear, switched to rear ones all around (with aluminium shocks caps) and now run these bad boys on my Slash

These are aluminium piggy back shocks for the Axial Wraith with Ti-Ni shafts and screw adjustable pre-load.  I just thing piggy backs are sexy.

The final point I’ll make here is that good shocks is just the starting point – they have to be set up right (oil, springs.etc.) to work effectively.

Drivetrain

Transmission Case:

The stock transmission case is pretty good in my opinion, not infallible but for most uses will serve you well.  There are other plastic options though, like the Pro-Line kit, which also includes a sealed, oil-filled differential and redesigned slipper clutch (it better do at the price they want for it).  Where metal comes into play is when you want to tackle heat, as EGJr. said:

“Metal is the best here because it will wick away motor heat. FLM is the highest quality but most of the others are good too.”

PL6092-00
ProLine Performance Transmission For 2WD Slash/Stampede/Rustler/Bandit

FLM Transmission Case

TE1206 Hot Racing Blue Aluminum Transmission Case & Motor Mount

Drive-shafts:

The stock Slash 4×4 rear shafts are very good but if you want CVDs the MIP and STRC ones are good. Integy and venom don’t seem as popular.

TRX-6852X
Driveshaft assembly, rear, heavy duty (1) (left or right) (fully assembled, ready to install)/ screw pin (1)

MIP X-DUTY Keyed Rear CVD Kit (Slash/Slash 4×4)

Well that’s it for now.  My take on EGJr.s thread.  I will be adding more thoughts on upgrades at some date no doubt.

Note: The links in this post go to hobby shops in the UK and US.  I don’t get commission from them, I’m just trying to make life easier. They may be me favourites but that doesn’t mean you have to use them.

The Basic…continued.

Somer basic knowledge and background for you, this time in Video form.  We start with The Jang’s* review of the Traxxas Slash 2WD brushed edition from some time ago but it ‘s worth viewing.

Next we have the JANG’s RC Tune-Up: Traxxas Slash 2WD part 1, which although relased in May 2012 hasn’t been followed up yet 😦

The setup described in the video is pretty much the essential first modes guide so take a look and start the journey of tweaking your Slash.

* “The Jang” runs URC and is a real positive force in the RC world

The Basics

Everybody knows what RTFM means (don’t they?) but lets be honest few of us do it.  The thing is its important, especially with RTR’s because they WILL break and you WILL have to repair them.  So it’s a good idea to make yourself familiar with the Slash manuals and supporting guides and this is my take on the really important ones.

1. The Manual for the Slash will come with it if you get a new one but if not you can get them here (pdf format).  This will have basic info in but if you really want to get to know your Slash and when you have to repair it (which you will) then you need these….

2. Exploded Views are essential and fortunately the Slash ones are really good and readily available for download (in pdf format) from Traxxas, here.

image

Traxxas seem to go one set further than many manufacturers and also provide clickable versions that hot link each and every part directly to the Traxxas Parts store.  Some model shops even provide custom versions for their own shops, for example if you are in the UK then the exploded view for the Slash available here from Wheelspin Models & Hobbies will link straight into their store.  This can make ordering from your preferred supplier very much easier.  These views will be vital in helping you understand how your slash fits together, works, and in identifying issues.

3. The Slash Spec Racing Setup Guide is a must read for understanding your truck, how it works, and how to start tweaking it to get the best from it.  The guide examines basic Suspension Adjustments, including shock oil, camber, preload, ride height and tweaking your Differential (that is not a euphemism).

4. Building the Ultimate Slash – The Full-Option Slash Project is where you should start if you want to start to understand the accessories that improve performance and durability and the setup changes needed to accompany them e.g. gearing options.  It tackles Suspension & Steering, drivetrain, power and other upgrades.  Of course being a Traxxas article it only discusses Traxxas option parts but the principles discussed are just as valid.

Blue-anodized aluminum bell cranks (3743A)

And whilst we are on the subject of basics make sure you have the right tools, yes you get some stuff with your kit but in all honesty you are likely to struggle or get frustrated if you stick to them alone.  There is no need to go to town but I really would suggest as a very minimum you purchase a set of hex drives Including 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 3.0mm, Hex sockets 5, 5.5,7mm, and a set of long nosed pliers.  Like I say no need to go to town but remember you get what you pay for. Smile

The beginning is a very delicate time.

Know then that it is the year 2012. The RC RTR Universe is dominated by Traxxas. In this time, the most precious RC in my collection is my Traxxas Slash. The Slash extends life. The Slash expands consciousness. The Slash is vital to maintaining my credit rating. The Slash Community and its drivers, who the Slash has mutated since 2008, use a range of spares and customisations, which gives them the ability to race short course trucks. That is, in 1/10th scale at least.

Image